Harking Back: Ancient 'serais' and their evolving role in Lahore's history.

Byline: Majid Sheikh

Very often we pass by amazing structures of historic Lahore without realising its value in the past, and how it served as the bastions of power over the centuries. Our 'mind's eye' just does not wander to a land virtually rejected. But times will change.

We cannot describe each and every such structure in one column, so let me select a few examples from important portions of our past. Let me touch on a few 'serais', or hotels as we now call them now. Their role in our history is important, with numerous stories attached to each, The oldest 'serai' of Lahore left standing today in structure only, and not functioning, is the 'Akbari Serai' standing between Jahangir's tomb and that of Asaf Khan.

The name is a bit of a misnomer for it was built before the Akbar era. The credit for that goes to Islam Shah Suri, son of Sher Shah Suri, in probably 1554-55. This 'serai' served travellers coming from, or going to the West, as well as those who rested before entering Lahore across the River Ravi. The disused mosque remains certainly are from the Suri era.

Next to 'Akbari Serai' are also a number of rooms, which still exist, though in a dilapidated condition. These were built in the Shah Jehan period. In the early Mughal period this place also served as the postal office, or 'Dak Chowki', for this was the very first form of the legendary 'Pony Express' that carried official letters.

The entire place was run by an important Mughal official called a 'Shahna' who provided travellers with bedding and food as well as fodder and water to the tired horses. This official had several assistants as well as a 'Hakeem'. One can assume that Shahdara Bazaar came up primarily to cater to the needs of this 'serai' and its visitors.

The original 'serai' was spread over 12 acres within an 800 by 600 feet area which had 180 rooms, known as 'khanas' with a front verandah and a common passage to each verandah. In the middle was a large green space. At the edges of the compound were watch towers and it had two gateways, portions of which still can be seen.

This place was once the finest structure of Mughal Lahore, though the Sikhs partially damaged the place for its marble and inlaid designs. When work on the mausoleum of Jahangir started, workers lived there. Afterwards the mausoleum's caretakers lived there.

This vast 'serai' was used by Maharajah Ranjit Singh to house a Spanish general known as Musa Farangi who lived there with his regiment...